Umdwebi wezithombe odumile, umthwebuli wezithombe, umdwebi wezithombe, umdwebi, umklami, isithonjana se-pop kanye ne-superstar yemfashini udlule emhlabeni eneminyaka engama-85, futhi kuphephile ukusho ukuthi umhlaba wemfashini awusophinde ufane. Ukuqinisekisa ukulandelana, okwamanje, uVirginie Viard, isandla sakhe sokudla iminyaka engama-30. UClaudia Schiffer: "UKarl wayeyimpuphu yami yemilingo, wangiguqula ngisuka entombazaneni enamahloni yaseJalimane ngayenza isimodemu"
Uma ufuna ukulungisa ipolitiki, qhubeka, kodwa ngicela ungazami ukufaka abanye engxoxweni yakho, ngoba lokho kungaba ukuphela kwakho konke. Ingabe ufuna ukuba yisicefe? Vele ube nepolitiki efanele ”. Lokhu, ngamafuphi, i Ukucabanga kwe-Lagerfeld: kuyindida, akuhambelani ngokuphelele, ukuphikisana nomkhuba futhi ngaphezu kwakho konke okwakho. Uma kukhona into eyodwa uKarl Lagerfeld angakaze azame ukuyenza ukuzama ukunqoba uzwela lomphakathi: uhlale ehamba ngendlela yakhe, kungakhathalekile impumelelo (eminingi) nezimpikiswano (eziningi). UKarl Lagerfeld, umlobi wezithombe odumile, umthwebuli wezithombe, umdwebi wezithombe, umdwebi, umklami, isithonjana se-pop kanye ne-superstar washona eneminyaka engu-85, mhlawumbe njengoba abelokhu edlala ngonyaka wakhe wokuzalwa, futhi kungashiwo ngokuqinisekile ukuthi umhlaba wemfashini awusoze uphinde ufane.Farewell to Karl Lagerfeld: the memory of stylists, supermodels and friends FUNDA KABANZI“UKarl wayeyimpushana yami yomlingo, wangiguqula ngisuka entombazaneni enamahloni yaseJalimane wangenza isupermodel. Ungifundise ngemfashini, isitayela nokuthi ungaphila kanjani emhlabeni wemfashini ». Ngakho-ke ngokuthunyelwe ku-Instagram uClaudia Schiffer ukhumbula isitayela sakubo. «Wayeyini u-Andy Warhol kwezobuciko wayeyimfashini. Akunakubuyiselwa ndawo. Nguye kuphela umuntu ongenza umbala omnyama nomhlophe ogcwele umbala. Ngizombonga kuze kube phakade, ”kunezela uSchiffer.
Kuchazwa njengendoda ye-Renaissance, ekwazi ukuba nezintshisekelo eziyinkulungwane namakhono ahlukene ayinkulungwane, ubuhlakani, i-punk (incazelo ngekaRiccardo Tisci, owathi enkulumweni yakhe noD La Repubblica ngo-2013 wamthatha njengesibonelo sokungahambisani kancane "imfashini), Waqanjwa ngokuthi uKaiser Karl ngenxa yobukhulu besimo sakhe kwi-panorama yesitayela, umele umuntu oyingqayizivele, walokho abaseMelika abakubiza ngokuthi "kukhulu kunokuphila", owedlula umkhawulo womsebenzi wakhe.
UKarl Lagerfeld, umklami weChanel noFendi, ushonile. Impilo yakhe ezithombeni
Into eyodwa kufanele ishiwo ngokushesha ngeLagerfeld: izinto kwakumele zenziwe ngendlela yakhe, kungakhathalekile okunye. Lokhu kwenzeka nangesikhathi sokuzalwa kwakhe nomndeni wakhe: UKarl Otto Lagerfed wazalelwa eHamburg ngomhlaka 10 Septhemba 1933 wazalwa nguChristian, ongusomabhizinisi emkhakheni wemikhiqizo yobisi, no-Elizabeth Bahlmann, owathi ngesikhathi somhlangano nomyeni wakhe wakusasa ubesebenza njengomthengisi esitolo saseBerlin. Futhi lapha, izinto ziba nzima: usekela imvelaphi enhle yomndeni, echaza ukuthi umama wakhe wayaziwa njengo "Elizabeth waseJalimane" nokuthi ubaba wakhe kwakungu-Otto Ludwig Lagerfeldt, womndeni ohloniphekile waseSwitzerland, futhi Ukuzalwa ngo-'38, bese ukhuluma ngo-'35. Uhlelo lwethelevishini lwaseJalimane, luxoxisana nomuntu afunda naye esikoleni, luqinisekisa u-'33 njengonyaka ofanele, u-niche kuze kube sekugcineni kodwa akunandaba, uyakwazi.
Okuqinisekile ukuthi ngo-14 uya eParis ayofundela ubuciko nokuklama, ngoba ithalente liyabonakala. Ukhuluma izilimi eziningana, kuqashelwa ngokushesha, ngo-1954 wawina umklomelo weWoolmark osanda kuzalwa, owandulela imiklomelo yemfashini ethandwa kakhulu namuhla: ukumnikeza ukunqoba umdwebo wejazi, ngenkathi elinye ithalente elivelayo okufanele isihloko sabelwane nalo, uYves Saint Laurent, wakha ingubo yakusihlwa.
Ngemuva kwendebe uzoba umsizi kaPierre Balmain, ngaleso sikhathi isithunzi se-chic yaseParis, khona-ke iminyaka engu-5 waklama i-haute couture kaJean Patou. Ekuqaleni kwakhe izintatheli ezithile zishiya igumbi lithukutheliswe yizingcezu nezingubo zezingubo zokugqoka: ukugxekwa akukuhle neze, kepha kuLagerfeld lokhu akubalulekile kangako, futhi uyaqhubeka nokunciphisa izingcingo nokuhleleka kobujamo ngendlela entsha, engajwayelekile indlela. Iqiniso ngukuthi i-couture iyodwa isondele kuye, ngoba iyisikhathi samanje, iqiniso kanye nenqubekela phambili evame ukwenzeka ngokwemvelo. Ukufika eChloé ngo-1963 (kuze kube ngu-78, ukubuyela ebuholini bohlobo lomkhiqizo phakathi kuka-'92 no-'97) ngakho-ke kuhle kuye, ngoba anganikeza impilo umbono wakhe. Abesifazane bakhe bathanda ukuhlangana, ama-bohemian, ama-sexy futhi kwesinye isikhathi bayekhempu, kepha impela bangempela futhi bagqoke iqiniso elibazungezile. Ngo-'65 waqala ubudlelwano bakhe eFendi, lapho asayina khona inkontileka yempilo (isivumelwano esifanayo azosayina ngemuva kweminyaka nguChanel). Ngodadewabo bakaFendi uba ngomunye womndeni, abathungi bezitebele zamaRoma bayamazi futhi bayamthanda. Nangempela namuhla USilvia Venturini Fendi, ICreative Director yeFendi imkhumbula kanjena: “Ngiphatheke kabi kakhulu ngoba namhlanje silahlekelwe ngumuntu oyingqayizivele nomklami ongenakulinganiswa, onikele kakhulu kuFendi nakimi. Ngangiyintombazanyana nje lapho ngiqala ukubona uKarl. Ubudlelwano bethu babukhetheke kakhulu, bususelwa othandweni olujulile nolweqiniso. Phakathi kwethu kwakukhona ukubonga okukhulu nokuhloniphana okungapheli. UKarl Lagerfeld wayengumeluleki wami nephuzu engangikhomba kulo. Ukubukeka okukodwa kwakwanele ukuqonda omunye komunye. Kimi noFendi, ubuhlakani bokudala bukaKarl Lagerfeld kwaba futhi buzohlala bungukukhanya okuqondisayo okwakha iDNA kaMaison. Ngizomkhumbula kakhulu futhi ngizohlala ngiphethe izinkumbulo zezinsuku esizichithe sindawonye ”.
Ngemuva kokufika kwakhe eFendi, uLagerfeld wasebenza ngokuzikhandla kumaphrojekthi amaningi: ngo-1974 waphinde wasungula igama elibizwa ngegama lakhe, futhi eliqhubeka nokushintshanisa inhlanhla namuhla (ngo-2005 uHilfiger wathatha izintambo, kodwa wamshiya elawula ezobuciko).
Ngo-1983 izinto ziyashintsha futhi. Eminyakeni eyishumi ngemuva kokushona kukaCoco, wacelwa ukuthi athathe indlu yakwaChanel ayenze ibe "yimfashini" futhi. Abangane bakhe bayamncenga ukuthi angakwenzi, angalimazi impilo yakhe kulelo thuna elinothuli neliphelelwe yisikhathi, kepha kuyinselelo ukunqotshwa kuye: futhi uyayinqoba, futhi kanjani. Ngomqondo webhizinisi ophawuleka kakhulu, ugxila kuzimpawu ze-maison, azisebenzise futhi azivuselele zize zibe pop. Uyachaza ukuthi uyazi ukuthi uCoco uzokuzonda akwenzayo, kodwa ukuthi umsebenzi wakhe ukugwema ukuphinda lokho osekuvele kwenziwa, kepha ukuzibekisela ikusasa. Naye uChanel ubuya ezoba ngenye yamaphoyinti wesitayela, uphawu lwesimo, okuthile okuzokhonjiswa kakhulu kubantu besifazane abakhulu njengezinkanyezi kanye namantombazane esizukulwane esisha. Khonamanjalo, ngo-1989, umlingani wakhe wezomlando, uJacques de Bascher, oyisithandwa sesizukulwane sakamuva nomuntu onomusa wobusuku baseParis, wadlula emhlabeni. Ukuphela kwesixhumanisi uLagerfeld, ohlala ehlakaniphile kakhulu, ake wavuma.
Kanye nobukhulu balo mkhiqizo, udumo lukaLagerfeld nalo lwakhula ngejubane elifanayo: njengomthwebuli wezithombe uyayibona imikhankaso yabezindaba kaFendi noChanel, ulandela uchungechunge lwamaphrojekthi "wesibambiso", kusukela ekushicileleni imfashini (kamuva nje okushicilelwe ngoDisemba weVogue Paris) kuya ekwakhiweni kwefenisha, edlula eSteidl, indlu yokushicilela lapho ubamba isigxobo, ku-Pirelli Calendar, kuze (ngisho) namagajethi nama-ayisikhilimu. Ikhaya lakhe eParis, elinomtapo wolwazi walo obabazekayo ogcwele imiqulu, livame ukusetshenziswa njengesitudiyo esithwebula izithombe: okubalulekile kuLagerfeld akuyeki, ukuqhubeka nokwenza nokuthola izinto ezintsha. Ungumuntu owaziwa kakhulu ngamasiko, kulabo abambuza ukuthi ngabe uyeneliseka ngokugcwele yini ngemuva kombukiso wemfashini uphendula ngokuthi ufana no "nymphomaniac ongakaze afinyelele ku-orgasm". Ngo-2001 yena, unentshisekelo ngokudla okungenamsoco kanye noCoca Cola, ulahlekelwa ngamakhilogremu angama-42 esikhathini esingaphansi konyaka: ukudla kwakhe kuzophinda kube yincwadi, futhi kulabo abambuza ukuthi ukwenzeleni, uyachaza ukuthi wayefuna ukwazi ukugqoka kumasudi kaHedi Slimane., akhonjiswe ngabaningi njengolandela ngemuva kwakhe, hhayi ngokomoya kuphela.
Uma kuziwa ekunikezeni umbono wakhe, akalokothi ahlehle, futhi imiphumela ivame ukuphikisana: ukuchaza izizathu zobuncane bamamodeli akhe uthi akekho noyedwa othanda ukubona abesifazane baseJunoesque, uchaza u-Adele njengononile (ngaphandle kwalokho uxolise kuye ngokuxhamazela), ukhomba ebhulukweni lamasudi uphawu lokwehluleka kokugcina, uyavuma ukugqoka sengathi ungumlingisi kumaskhi ukuzivikela kubantu angabazi, ukuzonda izingxoxo "zobuhlakani" ngoba umbono kuphela okumthokozisayo okwakhe, kubabandlulula labo ababhikishela ama-furs ngokuchaza impikiswano yobuntwana yomphakathi lapho umuntu adla khona inyama agqoke ngesikhumba.
Akesabi ngisho nokuba "ithandwa": kuyena ukuthi i-H & M iphathise iqoqo lokuqala elenziwe ngumklami omkhulu ngo-2004. Ulayini ongaphandle kwezitolo ukubamba isiqeshana mude kakhulu, kepha umqambi kumele athi: Ubuningi buyimikhiqizo ephansi kakhulu, ngokusho kwakhe, kulayini onhloso yawo ukuletha imfashini enhle kanokusho kubantu (ucasulwa nawukuthi amamodeli akhe, enzelwe abantu abancane, nawo akhiqizwa ngosayizi 48 wabesifazane, kodwa ukubekezela). Ngesikhathi esifanayo, noma kunjalo, idokhumentari ka-2005, "uSigné Chanel", itshela ubudlelwano bokuhlonipheka okujulile nothando olukhona phakathi kwakhe nabathungi be-atelier yaseParis, kanti uthando lwakhe eminyakeni yamuva nje nguChoupette, ikati elihle intombazane yaseBurma ayinikezwe ngumvikeli wakhe, u-Baptiste Giabiconi, amgcinele oweta ababili amahora angama-24 ngosuku futhi amveza kaningi emihlanganweni yakhe. UKarl Lagerfeld: "UChoupette uyindlalifa yami" FUNDAFuthi lokho namuhla kuzuza njengefa impilo yendlovukazi. Okwamanje kusazobonakala ukuthi ngubani ozongena esikhundleni sakhe. Isithonjana asisekho, siyathandwa futhi siyaxoxwa: futhi lokho kuyikhala elingeke ligcwaliswe kalula. Khonamanjalo, uVirginie Viard, indoda yesandla sokudla sikaKarl Lagerfeld iminyaka engaphezu kwengu-30, uzoqinisekisa ukuqhubeka komkhiqizo, kuze kumenyezelwe umklami omusha.
Umthombo We-athikili: republic
