Ngaphansi komhlaba, uhlobo lwaseBrithani olugqugquzelwe ama-subcultures kusukela ngo-1981.
Njengoba ngisanda kuhlangana nokukhanga kwama-subcultures nokuba nentshisekelo enkulu kwezemfashini ngokomlando kanye nendlela ehlangana ngayo nenhlalo ezungezile, nginqume ukubhala ngokuthile okuhlanganisa lezi zici.
Nokho, ukukhanyiseleka kwafika lapho nginquma ukuyofuna izicathulo engangihlale ngizifuna, iCreeper. Ngakho-ke ngizokutshela ngalolu hlobo olubaluleke kakhulu endaweni ye-English subcultural scene. Ngaphansi komhlaba.
Ngo-2011 i-Underground Creeper yaba ukubonga okudumile kubantu abadumile njengoRihanna noJohnny Depp; ngaleso sikhathi ubani owayengeke abafune?!
Eqinisweni, ngemuva kwalezi zicathulo kunomlando omude kakhulu owaqala eManchester ngo-1981, idolobha elisenyakatho yeNgilandi, ngaleso sikhathi liyincithakalo futhi limpofu.
Ngakho-ke ake sibuyisele emuva ikhasethi bese sitshelana izinto ngokulandelana kwazo.
Siku-1981, njengoba sesishilo, edolobheni laseNgilandi elihlaselwe ukwehla kwezimboni; lokho, nokho, kusukela ekuqaleni, okuhlukanisa iManchester, ngokuqinisekile, ukuchichima kwama-subcultures akhona, ake sikhulume ngePunk, i-Post Punk, i-Gothic, i-New Romantics, i-Football Casuals kanye nezinsalela ze-Northern Soulers, ikulesobho lemibono yomculo. kanye nezinqubomgomo ukuthi kuzalwa isitolo esincane, enhliziyweni yedolobha, umsunguli waso ubizwa ngokuthi u-Alan Bukvic.
Igwenywe imikhiqizo emikhulu ngoba incane futhi ayijwayelekile, leso sitolo, ukuze sithengiswe kabusha, sivula indlela engajwayelekile nePunk. Kuleli qophelo, ucwaningo luthuthela eJalimane nase-Italy ngenhloso yokungenisa into eyayingekho kakhulu eNgilandi, sikhuluma nge-Adidas, isicathulo esinemigqa emithathu.
Ukuthengwa kwe-Adidas kwaba okuyisisekelo ku-Underground, phakathi kwamakhasimende abo abalulekile esiwatholayo, ngaleso sikhathi, i-Football Casuals yaseManchester; Futhi, izithonjana zedolobha ezifana ne-Gallaghers, ezivela e-Oasis, noma u-Shaun Ryder ovela ku-Happy Mondays bezivamile.
Kusukela lapha usuvele uzwe isibopho esiqinile umkhiqizo onaso nomculo waseBrithani; akukhona nje ukuqondana ukuthi izokwakhiwa phezu kwamasiko omculo wendawo ayizungezile, kuze kufike ekwakhiweni komugqa wezicathulo eziklanyelwe ukukhiqiza amagagasi omculo, lo mugqa wango-2014 uzothatha igama le-Soundwave.
Kodwa-ke, ama-subcultures ahlukahlukene ahlala ndawonye awatholi umuntu ozonakekela isitayela sabo, ngakho-ke yi-Undergound eyenza indlela eya kulo mhlaba, ebhekana nezingubo zangaphandle nezicathulo.
Ukusuka kwelinye i-subculture kuya kwelinye, kuthatha ugqozi emculweni waseBrithani kanye nentsha, umkhiqizo uqoqa i-Monkey Boot, umthengisi wokuqala ongcono kakhulu wesitolo kanye nesisekelo samasiko entsha; bese udlula ezicathulweni ze-corduroy, ezithandwa ngabakwaCasuals kuya kunguqulo engaphansi kwe-Destert Boots. Ukuqinisekisa ikhwalithi, ukukhiqizwa kuthuthelwa eLancashire futhi ngesikhathi esifanayo isicathulo sokuqala esisayinwe ngaphansi komhlaba siqala ukukhiqizwa kwaso.
Kodwa akugcini lapho, isitolo siphinde sishintshele ekuthengeni izingubo zokuluka, ikakhulukazi, sigxile kulokho okwakuyintamo yabasebenzi yakudala, eqala ukuzwakala kuma-bleachers ezinkundleni zase-UK.
Lena bekuyiminyaka yokuqeqeshwa kwesitolo, ukukhetha umkhiqizo kanye nokukhetha kwesitayela.
Siku-1987 futhi imakethe yaseLondon icindezela ukwakhiwa kweqoqo elisemthethweni; futhi nali iqoqo lokuqala elaziwa ngokuthi Okwangempela, eligqugquzelwe amandla e-punk kanye nobudlova.
Umugqa waba yitshe legumbi, ngeminyaka yawo-80s, emaqenjini afana ne-New Romantics, Goths kanye namagagasi amasha.
Sibona ukubuya okuqinile kwezicathulo ze-Creeper ezafika zisuka kuma-50s, okwakungasekho muntu owayefuna ukuzikhiqiza. Kukhona namabhuzu e-Steel Cap, isicathulo esijwayelekile somsebenzi, esihunyushwe kabusha ngemibala emisha, izinto zokwakha kanye nama-silhouette, anezimbobo eziyi-8 noma eziyi-10 noma ezidlulele kakhulu njengalezo ezinezimbobo ezingama-20 noma ezingama-30.
Amabhuzu e-Winklepicker anamabhande angu-4 noma angu-6, abalulekile esikweni lamaGoths njengeCreeper for the Meteor kanye neTramm Trab for the Football Casuals.
I-1988 unyaka lapho i-Underground inikela ngamabhuzu ensimbi, sisenkathini lapho iPunk idedela khona i-Grunge futhi uhlobo lubona ukwanda kanye nabalandeli bomhlaba wonke.
Ukuvela kabusha kwe-Psychobilly kuthatha i-Creeper, ngo-1990, isinyathelo esilandelayo, isiko libona ukuhlanganiswa kwe-rockabilly ne-lurid kanye ne-ironic. Iminyaka lapho ibhuthi ye-Steel Cap iba yinto okufanele ibe nayo kubantu bangaphandle, ngozwane ozwakalayo ngensimbi, irabha kanye nomthungo wePuritan wemigqa emithathu.
Ngemva kokubuyela kuma-brand angu-1993 aphezulu e-Japan ngo-5, i-Underground yathuthela isitolo ku-Carnaby Street, indawo ebona isiko eliqinile langaphandle, elilungele ukwamukela isitolo esinjalo esihlubukayo nesisha.
I-2000s yiminyaka ye-androgynous, lapho uphawu luvela khona emigwaqweni yaseGaultier, iLagerfeld nabanye abaningi, iminyaka yokusebenzisana no-Lee Jeans noLewis Leather; kuleli qophelo izicathulo zihlotshiswe ngama-zips kanye nezikhonkwane, kuyilapho i-Creeper ivula ukuze ibe yimbadada.
Ngo-2011, ngemuva kokubuyela ekukhanyeni kwe-Creepers, umkhiqizo wasebenzisana namalebula afana no-Mugler, Ashish kanye ne-Casette Playa.
Isitolo siphinde sathuthelwa ku-Berwick Street, indawo ecishe yalibaleka ye-Soho kodwa umnyombo womculo waseBrithani.
Ngo-2014 kwakhululwa iqoqo le-Soundwave elengeza ukuthinta kwesimanje kwisitayela somkhiqizo, lisaxhumene kakhulu nemvelaphi yalo.
Ngakolunye uhlangothi, iqoqo le-Half Moon lisuka ku-2019, ukuhunyushwa kabusha kwezinyathelo zokuqala zomkhiqizo ngomklamo omusha, umugqa owenziwe ngokuphelele e-UK, ngombono wokweseka izinkampani ezizimele zendawo, ikakhulukazi eziphethwe umndeni, kanye nomugqa we-vegan.
Njengoba kunikezwe ukuhlukana nokushintshwa kwama-subcultures ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, i-Underground, kulokhu, isondela kumbono omusha, ukulwa namakhodi ahlukene obulili, uhlanga namasiko. Ibhrendi futhi isekela amabhendi endawo namalebula azimele, iqhubeka nokugcina isixhumanisi nezinhlobo zomculo zaseBrithani siphila.
Njengamapunk eqiniso, angajwayelekile, ahamba ngejubane lawo.
Kuwo wonke ama-subcultures, abo bonke abangaphandle, kuwo wonke ama-undergrounds.
