Wolemba masitayilo, wojambula zithunzi, wojambula, wojambula, wojambula, wojambula pop ndi wopambana wa mafashoni wamwalira ali ndi zaka 85, ndipo ndibwino kunena kuti dziko la mafashoni silidzakhalanso chimodzimodzi. Kuonetsetsa kuti akutsatiridwa, pakadali pano, Virginie Viard, dzanja lake lamanja kwa zaka 30. Claudia Schiffer: "Karl anali ufa wanga wamatsenga, adandisintha kukhala msungwana wamanyazi waku Germany kukhala supermodel"
Ngati mukufuna kukhala olondola pazandale, pitirizani, koma chonde musayese kutenga nawo mbali pazokambirana zanu, chifukwa awa akhoza kukhala mapeto azonse. Kodi mukufuna kukhala wotopetsa? Ingokhalani olondola pa ndale ”. Izi, mwachidule, fayilo ya Lagerfeld-lingaliro: zodabwitsa, zosagwirizana kwathunthu, zotsutsana nazo komanso koposa zonse. Ngati pali chinthu chimodzi chomwe Karl Lagerfeld sanayeserepo ndikuyesera kuti amve chisoni ndi anthu: wakhala akupita njira yake, mosasamala za kupambana (zambiri) ndi mikangano (yochuluka). Karl Lagerfeld, stylist wodziwika bwino, wojambula zithunzi, wojambula, wojambula, wopanga, wojambula pop ndi wopambana wa mafashoni adamwalira ali ndi zaka (mwina) wazaka 85, akuwona momwe wakhala akusewera chaka chake chobadwa, ndipo titha kunena motsimikiza kuti dziko la mafashoni silidzakhalanso chimodzimodzi.Tsalani ndi Karl Lagerfeld: kukumbukira kwama stylists, ma supermodels ndi abwenzi WERENGANI ZAMBIRI“Karl anali ufa wanga wamatsenga, adandisintha kuchokera ku mtsikana wamanyazi waku Germany ndikukhala supermodel. Adandiphunzitsa za mafashoni, kalembedwe komanso momwe ndingakhalire ndi moyo wa mafashoni ». Chifukwa chake ndikulemba pa Instagram Claudia Schiffer amakumbukira wolemba stylist wa kwawo. «Zomwe Andy Warhol anali zaluso chifukwa cha mafashoni. Ndizosasinthika. Ndiye munthu yekhayo amene amatha kupanga utoto wakuda ndi woyera. Ndimuthokoza kwamuyaya, "akuwonjezera Schiffer.
Wofotokozedwa ngati munthu wazaka zakubadwanso kwatsopano, wokhoza kukhala ndi zokonda chikwi ndi kuthekera kosiyanasiyana chikwi, waluntha, punk (tanthauzo lake ndi a Riccardo Tisci, yemwe poyankhulana ndi D La Repubblica mu 2013 adamutenga ngati chitsanzo cha zochepa " "mafashoni), dzina lake Kaiser Karl chifukwa cha kukongola kwa mawonekedwe ake mu mawonekedwe a mawonekedwe, amaimira munthu wapadera, wa zomwe aku America amatcha "wokulirapo kuposa moyo", yemwe amapitilira malire a ntchito yake.
Karl Lagerfeld, wopanga Chanel ndi Fendi, wamwalira. Moyo wake pazithunzi
Chinthu chimodzi chiyenera kunenedwa nthawi yomweyo za Lagerfeld: zinthu zimayenera kuchitika mwanjira yake, mosasamala kanthu za enawo. Izi zidachitika ngakhale patsiku lake lobadwa ndi banja lake: Karl Otto Lagerfed adabadwira ku Hamburg pa 10 Seputembara 1933 kwa Mkhristu, wochita bizinesi pazogulitsa mkaka, ndi Elizabeth Bahlmann, yemwe panthawi yamisonkhano ndi mwamuna wake wamtsogolo. ankagwira ntchito yogulitsa zinthu m'sitolo ina ku Berlin. Ndipo apa, zinthu zimakhala zovuta: amathandizira magwero apamwamba am'banja, kufotokoza kuti amayi ake amadziwika kuti "Elizabeth waku Germany" komanso kuti abambo ake anali Otto Ludwig Lagerfeldt, wabanja lolemekezeka ku Switzerland, komanso kubadwa mu '38, ndiyeno lankhulani za '35. Pulogalamu yakuwayilesi yakanema yaku Germany, yofunsa mnzake yemwe amaphunzira naye kusukulu, imatsimikizira '33 ngati chaka cholondola, amayenda mpaka kumapeto koma zilibe kanthu, angathe.
Chotsimikizika ndichakuti pa 14 amapita ku Paris kukaphunzira zaluso ndi kapangidwe, chifukwa talenteyo imawonekera. Amayankhula zilankhulo zingapo, nthawi yomweyo amatuluka, mu 1954 adapambana Mphotho ya Woolmark yomwe yangobadwa kumene, wotsogola kwa mphotho za mafashoni zomwe zili zotchuka masiku ano: kuti amupatse chigonjetso sewero la malaya, pomwe talente ina yomwe ikubwera yomwe mutuwo uyenera kugawana nawo, Yves Saint Laurent, adapanga diresi yamadzulo.
Pambuyo pa chikhocho amadzakhala wothandizira a Pierre Balmain, panthawi yomwe anali wokongola kwambiri ku Paris, ndiye kwa zaka 5 adapanga zovala zapamwamba za Jean Patou. Poyambirira kwake, atolankhani ena amatuluka mchipindacho atakwiya ndi ma slits ndi ma neckline a madiresi: zonyoza sizabwino kwenikweni, koma kwa Lagerfeld izi zilibe kanthu kwenikweni, ndipo akupitilizabe kufupikitsa milongoyi ndikupanga mawonekedwe atsopano, njira yachilendo. Chowonadi ndichakuti couture yekha ali pafupi ndi iye, chifukwa ndizomwe zikuchitika masiku ano, zenizeni komanso kupita patsogolo komwe kumakhala kwachilengedwe. Kufika kwa Chloé mu 1963 (mpaka '78, kuti abwerere ku utsogoleri wa chizindikirocho pakati pa '92 ndi '97) ndichabwino kwa iye, chifukwa amatha kupereka masomphenya ake. Amayi ake ndiopanda pake, okonda zachiwerewere, achigololo ndipo nthawi zina amakhala pamsasa, koma amakhaladi enieni ndipo amavala zowona zowazungulira. Mu '65 adayamba mgwirizano ku Fendi, komwe adasaina mgwirizano wamoyo (mgwirizano womwe adzasainire zaka zingapo pambuyo pake ndi Chanel). Ndi alongo a Fendi amakhala m'modzi wabanja, osoka zovala zapa Roma amamudziwa ndikumupembedza. Ndipo zowonadi lero Silvia Venturini Fendi, Creative Director wa Fendi akumukumbukira motere: "Ndikumva chisoni kwambiri chifukwa lero tataya munthu wapadera komanso mlengi wopanda wina wofanana naye, yemwe wapereka zochuluka kwa Fendi komanso kwa ine ndekha. Ndinali kamtsikana kokha pamene ndinawona Karl koyamba. Ubwenzi wathu unali wapadera kwambiri, potengera chikondi chozama komanso chenicheni. Pakati pathu panali kuyamikirana kwakukulu ndi ulemu wopanda malire. Karl Lagerfeld anali mlangizi wanga komanso mfundo zanga. Kuwoneka kamodzi kunali kokwanira kumvana. Za ine ndi za Fendi, luso laukadaulo la Karl Lagerfeld anali ndipo azikhala chowunikira chotsogola chomwe chidapanga DNA ya Maison. Ndidzamusowa kwambiri ndipo nthawi zonse ndidzakhala ndi zokumbukira zamasiku omwe tidakhala limodzi ".
Atafika ku Fendi, Lagerfeld adagwira ntchito mosatopa: mu 1974 adakhazikitsanso dzina lodziwika, lomwe likupitilizabe kusinthanitsa chuma lero (mu 2005 Hilfiger adalanda, koma akumusiyira zaluso).
Mu 1983 zinthu zimasinthanso. Zaka khumi pambuyo pa imfa ya Coco, adapemphedwa kuti atenge nyumba ya Chanel ndikupanga "yapamwamba" kachiwiri. Anzake amamupempha kuti asachite izi, kuti asawononge moyo wake mu mausoleum afumbi komanso achikale, koma kwa iye ndizovuta kuti apambane: ndipo amawina, ndipo motani. Ndi chidwi chazamalonda, amayang'ana kwambiri zizindikiro za maison, ndikuwongolera ndikuwatsitsimutsa mpaka atakhala pop. Akufotokoza kuti akudziwa kuti Coco angadane ndi zomwe akuchita, koma kuti ntchito yake ndikupewa kubwereza zomwe zachitika kale, koma kudziwonetsera yekha mtsogolo. Ndili naye Chanel amabwerera kukhala imodzi mwazinthu zolembedwera kalembedwe, chizindikiritso, china chake choti chiwonetsedwe kwa azimayi akulu monga nyenyezi ndi atsikana a m'badwo watsopano. Pakadali pano, mu 1989, mnzake mnzake, a Jacques de Bascher, wamisala wa m'badwo waposachedwa komanso wachikoka wowonekera usiku ku Paris, adamwalira. Ndicho chokhacho chomwe Lagerfeld, nthawi zonse wanzeru kwambiri, adavomereza.
Pamodzi ndi kukula kwa chizindikirocho, kutchuka kwa Lagerfeld kumakulanso: monga wojambula zithunzi amazindikira kampeni ya Fendi ndi Chanel, amatsata ntchito zingapo "zoyambira", kuyambira kufalitsa mafashoni (posachedwa kwambiri mu Disembala la Vogue Paris) mpaka kapangidwe ka mipando, kudutsa Steidl, nyumba yosindikizira momwe imagwira mtengo, mu Kalendala ya Pirelli, mpaka (ngakhale) zida zamagetsi ndi ayezi. Nyumba yake ku Paris, yomwe ili ndi laibulale yake yochititsa chidwi yodzaza ndi mabuku, imagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati studio yojambulira: zomwe zili zofunika ku Lagerfeld sizimayima, kupitiliza kuchita ndikupeza zinthu zatsopano. Ndiwodziwika bwino pachikhalidwe, kwa iwo omwe amamufunsa ngati akukhutitsidwa kwathunthu pambuyo pawonetsero wamafashoni amawayankha kuti ali ngati "nymphomaniac yemwe sangafike pachimake". Mu 2001 iye, wokonda kwambiri zakudya zopanda pake ndi Coca Cola, amataya makilogalamu 42 pasanathe chaka chimodzi: zakudya zake zidzakhalanso buku, ndipo kwa iwo omwe amamufunsa chifukwa chomwe adazipangira, amafotokoza kuti amafuna kuvala mu masuti a Hedi Slimane., akuwonetsedwa ndi ambiri ngati olowa m'malo mwake, osati auzimu okha.
Zikafika pakumupatsa malingaliro ake, samabwerera m'mbuyo, ndipo zotsatira zake nthawi zambiri zimakhala zotsutsana: kuti afotokoze zomwe zimapangitsa kuti azimayi ake azicheperako akuti palibe amene amakonda kuwona azimayi a Junoesque, amafotokoza Adele ngati wonenepa kwambiri (pokhapokha atamupepesa mwachangu), akuwonetsa buluku mu sutiyo chizindikiro cha kulephera komaliza, akuvomereza kuvala ngati kuti ndi munthu wovala zodzitetezera kuti adziteteze kwa alendo, kudana ndi zokambirana "zanzeru" chifukwa chokhacho Malingaliro omwe amamusangalatsa, amasuliza omwe amatsutsa ma furs pofotokozera mkangano wabwana pagulu lomwe munthu amadya nyama ndi madiresi achikopa.
Sachita mantha kukhala "wotchuka": kwa iye kuti H & M imapatsa chopereka choyamba chopangidwa ndi wopanga wamkulu mu 2004. Mizere yomwe ili kunja kwa malo ogulitsira kuti itenge chidutswa ndiyitali kwambiri, koma wopanga ayenera kunena kuti Zambiri ndizochepa kwambiri, malinga ndi iye, chifukwa cha mzere womwe cholinga chake ndikubweretsa mafashoni abwino kwambiri kwa anthu (amakhumudwitsidwanso chifukwa choti mitundu yake, yopangidwira anthu owonda, idapangidwanso kukula kwa akazi 48, koma chipiriro). Nthawi yomweyo, komabe, zolembedwa za 2005, "Signé Chanel", zimafotokoza za ubale wa ulemu waukulu ndi chikondi chomwe chilipo pakati pa iye ndi osoka zovala aku Paris, pomwe chidwi chake m'zaka zaposachedwa ndi Choupette, mphaka wokongola waku Burma mphatso wopatsidwa ndi wotetezedwa, Baptiste Giabiconi, yemwe amamusungira operekera zakudya kwa maola 24 tsiku lililonse ndipo amamuwonetsa m'malemba ake. Karl Lagerfeld: "Choupette ndi heiress wanga" WERENGANINdipo lero lero limatengera moyo wa mfumukazi. Pakadali pano zikuwonekabe kuti ndi ndani amene adzalowe m'malo mwake. Chizindikiro chapita, chikukondedwa ndikukambirana: ndipo chimenecho ndiye cholowa chomwe sichidzadzazidwa mosavuta. Pakadali pano, a Virginie Viard, wamanja kudzanja lamanja la Karl Lagerfeld kwa zaka zopitilira 30, atsimikizira kupitilizabe kwa chizindikirocho, mpaka kulengeza kwa wopanga watsopano.
Gwero la Nkhani: Republic
