Pissaladière kapena Pissalandrea: kuzindikira zakuthambo zakale zomwe zimatsutsana pakati pa Provence ndi West

La pissaladière ndi imodzi mwazakudya zomwe timakonda. Nkhani zonse ndi nthano, yolumikizidwa ndi asodzi komanso asodzi ku Mediterranean, okhala ndi mayina osiyanasiyana osinthikanso kuchokera pa kilomita kufika pa kilomita. Mwachidule, chimodzi mwakukonzekera kosangalatsa, komwe, kuwonjezera pakupanga bwino mwa iwo okha, kumatipangitsa kuyenda, munthawi ndi malo. Pachifukwa ichi, tiyenera kubwerera ku 1300, kuchokera ku Ligurian West ndi zigwa zake zamkati kupita kumidzi yaying'ono ya Côte d'Azur ndi Provence, kutsatira kununkhira kwa anchovies ndi anyezi omwe amatuluka mu uvuni. Chifukwa chake, tingoyenera kupita kukapeza pissaladière, malo akale a ku Mediterranean.

Mbiri ndi chiyambi cha Pissaladière: malingaliro awiriwa 

Chomwe chimatsimikizika pa pissaladière ndikuti ndi focaccia yokhala ndi mtanda wopangidwa ndi ufa, madzi, mchere, mafuta ndi yisiti, modzaza ndi zikopa za anangula mumchere wamchere (kapena mumafuta), anyezi, adyo ndi maolivi. Ichi ndiye gawo lake lalikulu: masewera osakanikirana mkamwa pakati pa mchere wa anchovies ndi kukoma kwa anyezi.

Lero limaonedwa kuti ndi luso la Nice, kudziko lonse la pissaladière. Sizangochitika mwangozi kuti ndi tawuni yamalire, pakati penipeni pakati pa malo awiri omwe akuwoneka kuti achokera: Ponente ndi Provence. M'malo mwake, pali ziphunzitso ziwiri zokha za mbiri yake, Mmodzi wa Chifalansa ndipo wina wa ku Italiya; koma mumazolowera, popeza si nthawi yoyamba kuti mayiko awiriwa akupikiranako kena kake, osati kukhitchini kokha! Tiyeni tiwone zomwe malingaliro awiriwa ali komanso kusiyana pakati pa mtundu winawo.

Chikhulupiriro cha ku Italiya: mtundu wofiyira wa Ligurian wa Ponente

Malinga ndi lingaliro la "Italy", pissaladière imachokera "Pitsa wa Andrea" (Ndimatchulanso izi polemekeza Andrea Esposito, mwana waku France-waku Italiya yemwe ndidamubatiza ndipo amamukonda) ndipo zikadakhala kuti zakonzedwa koyamba ku Liguria, m'zaka za m'ma XNUMX, kwa mkulu wa asilikali Andrea Doria, yemwe panthawiyo anali kugwira ntchito ku Republic of Genoa. Kuchokera apa chidzafalikira ku France panthawi yosamutsa apapa kuchokera ku Roma kupita ku Avignon kuyambira 1309 mpaka 1377. Koma kutsatira kupezeka kwa America ndikubwera kwa zinthu zosiyanasiyana ku Europe monga tomato, mtundu waku Italiya, kapena kuti, Ligurian, udakhala rossa. M'malo mwake, ku Liguria pissaladière nthawi zonse amakhala wokonzeka ndi phwetekere, mosiyana ndi waku France yemwe amakhalabe "woyera".

Timazipeza m'maiko osiyanasiyana akumadzulo, onse pagombe, kuchokera ku Imperia kupita ku Ventimiglia, kuposa mkati, pakati pa Valle Argentina ndi Val Nervia, m'malo abwino kwambiri pamalire ndi France, omwe tidakambirana kale za mandimu caviar. Apa, imayitanidwa m'njira zosiyanasiyana, pafupifupi pafupifupi mayina khumi ndi asanu. Pafupifupi nthawi zonse, komabe, zikuwonetsa kukonzekera komweko, ndiye kuti Focaccia zosakaniza zosiyanasiyana kuphatikiza anchovies (kapena sardines), phwetekere, adyo, anyezi, azitona (taggiasche), capers, basil, oregano ndipo nthawi zina ngakhale tchizi; amagwiritsidwa ntchito nthawi zambiri anyezi wokonzedwa bwino, msuzi wa phwetekere ndi anchovies, chomwe chimatchedwa chilankhulo cha Ligurian macctu. Nawa mayina omwe tidakumana nawo, chifukwa chake khalani okonzeka mukakumana ndi izi.

1. Pissalandrea m'dera la Imperia;
2. Pizza kwa Andrea;
3. Zowonjezera;
4. Pizzalandrea;
5. Pissadella;
6. Figasa makamaka ku Taggia;
7. sardenaire m'dera la Sanremo, momwe mumakhala sardines m'malo mwa ma anchovies ndipo mwalandira a De.Co (oyang'anira matawuni omwe adachokera);
8. Chimon Wachirawit, makamaka ku Buggio;
9. Figassun ku Apricale, pafupi ndi Dolceacqua, pomwe tidakuwuzani za iye micheta;
10. Machetusa o Mackettusa, nthawi zonse ku Val Nervia;
11. Pissadala ku Bordighera;
12. Adzasangalala ku Vallecrosia;
13. Piscarada mu Pigna;
14. Vojun mu Alta Val Nervia;
15. Chotsani kumalire ndi France, ku Ventimiglia, komwe kuno akutchulidwanso kuti "chinthu chamwambo cha Ventimiglia wokhala ndi chipembedzo chamatauni".

Chikhulupiriro chachi French: pissalat ndi pissaladière kuchokera ku Reboul kupita ku Escudier 

Malinga ndi chiphunzitso cha "French", mawu oti "pissaladière" amachokera salat, nsomba zamchere, kapena kuchokera chibwana (o Chiku Chiku), Kukonzekera kwakale komwe kudafalikira pakati pa asodzi a m'mphepete mwa nyanja ya Mediterranean kuchokera ku Cannes mpaka ku Menton, komwe wolemba wamkulu wama gastronomist akutiuza za Jean-Baptiste Reboul. Izi zimatitsimikizira, komanso chifukwa ku France "pissalat" imawonetsa njira yolondola kwambiri, yomwe ilipo mu lolembedwa ndi Reboul La cuisinière wa Provence, Buku loyamba lodziwika bwino la kumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma XNUMX. Salemba chilichonse chokhudza pissaladière, koma wa pissalat yekha: “Ndi nsomba zamchere zam'chitini mumphika, zomwe zimachokera ku 'peis salat' wa ku Occitan, nsomba zamchere. Nsombazi zazing'ono zimayikidwa m'migolo mosinthana ndi mchere wosalala, monga ma anchoviya m'miphika yamatabwa ndipo zimasiyidwa zolemera kwa masiku pafupifupi 8. Nsombazi zimachotsedwa kenako zimagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga puree ndi supuni zingapo za brine wawo ndi ma clove, kenako zimayikidwa m'mitsuko yamagalasi, yokutidwa ndi zikopa ndikusungidwa pamalo ozizira ".

Ichi ndichifukwa chake ndichopanga chomwe chimalumikizidwa kwambiri ndi asodzi, kotero kuti ku France pissaladière amatchedwanso la chidwi cha asodzi. Koma kupeza pissalat mu mbiya lero ndizosatheka, popeza wasowa pamalonda; ngati mutha kukonzekera cholowa m'malo mwa sardines, anchovies ndi mchere, momwe amalemba Jean-Noël Escudier. Anali woyamba kulankhula za pissaladière, m'buku lina lomwe ndikofunikira kudziwa (ndikukonzekera) zakudya za Provençal: Zakudya zabwino za Provence ndi niçoise (1953), pomwe pissaladiere imawonekera pakati pa zokopa, monga momwe agwiritsidwira ntchito lerolino. Ndinali ndi mwayi wokwanira kukonzekera kunyumba limodzi ndi mayi wina wa Provençal, ndipo ndikukutsimikizirani kuti ndi njira yosavuta, yosavuta komanso yachangu, yabwino kwambiri yopezera mwayi wopatsirana pogonana pomaliza! Kapenanso, mutha kuyipeza m'malo onse odyera kapena ophika buledi ku Nice ndi madera ozungulira.

Pissaladière: Chinsinsi cha mbiriyakale

Chifukwa chake, tasankha kukupatsani chinsinsi chachi French choyera, chifukwa zimawoneka ngati zoyambirira kwambiri komanso zakale kwambiri, popeza kulibe phwetekere. Ndipo chifukwa tidakhala ndi mwayi wokonzekera m'nyumba ya Provence, limodzi ndi Monique wa Saint Victor, pafupi ndi Avignon, wokonda kwambiri zakudya ndi chikhalidwe chakomweko, zomwe tidakuwuzani kale za msuzi kapena pistou. Monique akukonzekera pissaladière yeniyeni, monga akhala akuchita kwa zaka zambiri m'banja lake, yodzaza ndi anyezi, adyo, anchovies m'mafuta, maolivi ndi zitsamba. Ndiye pali zosiyana zambiri: pali ena omwe amaika ma anchovies angapo, anyezi enanso ndi zina zotero. Mulimonsemo, malangizo ake ndi akuti gwiritsani anyezi woyera, zomwe zimakhala ndi kusasinthika koyenera kwa izi, mosiyana, mwachitsanzo, zachikaso. Ndipo, chenjezo lake lina ndi loti pitirizani dzulo, kukonzekera mtanda ndi anyezi: motere, panthawi yokonzekera, muyenera kungotulutsa mtandawo, kuupaka ndi kuuika mu uvuni.

Zofunikira za anthu 6

Pasitala:

• 500 g ufa
• 1/2 lita imodzi ya madzi ofunda
• 4 g yisiti
• 15 g mafuta
• 5 g mchere wabwino

Kudzaza:

• 3 makilogalamu anyezi (makamaka oyera)
• Mitu 2 ya adyo
• 50 g azitona
• kulawa zazingwe za anchovy
• 1 maluwa garni kapena zitsamba zosiyanasiyana zonunkhira zomwe zilipo kapena mwakufuna
• mchere wabwino kulawa
• kulawa tsabola wotuwa
• kulawa mafuta

Ndondomeko

1. Pansi pake (palinso ena omwe amagwiritsa ntchito makeke ochepa kapena ophika) osakaniza madzi, yisiti, ufa, kenaka uzipereka mchere, maolivi owonjezera a maolivi ndikugwada mpaka mtandawo usakhale wosalala. Ikani mtandawo kuti uwuke mu chidebe chopaka mafuta pang'ono, pamalo otentha, pafupifupi 2 hours, ndipo dikirani kuti ichuluke kawiri.
2. Pakadali pano, tsitsani anyezi odulidwa mumafuta, ndi uzitsine wa shuga, mchere ndi tsabola, popanda kuwapanga bulauni, mpaka ipange pure.
3. Ngati simugwiritsa ntchito ma anchovies m'mafuta koma mumchere momwe amafunira choyambirira, desalt ma anchovies pansi pamadzi, chotsani fupa ndikuyika timatumba tomwe timapeza papepala loyamwa.
4. Pukutani mtandawo ndi pini yokugudubuza pafupifupi theka la sentimita lakuda, makamaka molunjika poto wothira mafuta.
5. Pakadali pano, kutengera mtundu wa mtanda, pali njira ziwiri. Pali ena omwe amangophika pasitala kwa mphindi 10 kenako amakonza msuzi mukamaliza kuphika koyamba ndikuphika mphindi 15-20. Ngati, kumbali inayo, mumaphika zonse pamodzi, tsanulirani anyezi kuvala mofanana pa mtanda womwe mwatulutsa, kusiya sentimita imodzi ndi theka m'mphepete. Kenako, kongoletsani ndi zingwe za anchovy mu oblique lozenges, ndiye kuti, kuyambira pakona e kupanga ma rombus angapo. Pakatikati pa rhombus iliyonse, pakati pa mzere umodzi ndi wina, ikani azitona. Pitilizani kupanga lozenges kuyambira pakona moyang'anizana ndi yomwe mudayambira, mpaka mutsirize. Monga nthawi zonse, aliyense ali ndi kapepala kake, kotero palinso ena omwe amakonza zosakanizazo munjira ina.
6. Ndikofunikira kuti uvuni uli kutentha kwa 210 ° -220 °, ndiye kuphika mu uvuni wosasunthika pafupifupi theka la ora, mpaka pizza ndi wagolide komanso crispy m'mbali.
7. Potuluka azikongoletsa ndi zitsamba monga thyme, tsabola kapena zitsamba zina zonunkhira. Mutha kusangalala ndi kutentha, kutentha kapena kuzizira.

Kuphatikiza apo, tikupangira galasi la Côtes de Provence AOC, dzina la South South France, komwe kulibe kusowa kwa vinyo wabwino. Mwachitsanzo, nanga bwanji yabwino maluwa, malo abwino apakatikati a focaccia omwe amatha kukhala oyera kapena ofiira?

L'articolo Pissaladière kapena Pissalandrea: kuzindikira zakuthambo zakale zomwe zimatsutsana pakati pa Provence ndi West zikuwoneka kuti ndizoyamba Zolemba Zazakudya.