Miyar biri, 'ya'yan itace da kayan zaki - abin da' yan fashin ke ci kenan

Shin kun taɓa mamakin hakan abin da 'yan fashin suka ci Caribbean akan jiragen ruwa? Idan mun san shi a yau kuma zamu iya magana game da shi, ya fi komai godiya ga marubucin Faransa Melani LeBris. Ita ce, a zahiri, wacce ta rubuta Filibusta Cuisine, rubutu mai matukar daukar hankali wanda yake da matukar mahimmanci tunda an rubuta shi tun daga jerin sunayen yan fashi da kuma masu sake kunnawa. Wanda aka buga shi a gidan bugawa na Eleuthera a karo na farko a 2003, sannan a cikin wasu bugu biyu a cikin 2010 da 2020, wannan littafin yana ci gaba da burgewa da kunnawa tare da magana iri ɗaya da irin ƙazamar magana. A yau mun bayyana wasu fannoni na wannan duniyar, amma ba su yi yawa ba, saboda fatan shine ku ma zaku sayi wannan rubutun. Don haka bari mu fara wannan tafiye tafiye a wasu lokuta da kuma a wasu wurare, na ɗakin girkin filibusta, tsakanin labarai da ambato daga littafin. Amma ka kiyaye: karanta kawai idan kana da ƙarfin ciki.

Daga abincin filibusta zuwa abincin Caribbean, gamuwa tsakanin tasiri daban-daban

con "Filibusta" suna nuni duk wa) annan 'yan fashin teku da kuma wuraren da ake kira freebooters wanda, tsakanin '500 da' 800, sun sami "Wasikar tafiya", Wato, aikin da gwamnatocinsu na Faransa, Ingilishi, da Dutch suka ba su don kai hari da kuma wasoson bakin teku, mallaka da yankuna da Spaniards suka mamaye, musamman na yankin Caribbean. Don haka su mutane ne waɗanda bisa ɗabi'arsu da ayyukansu suke motsawa, daidaitawa, cakuda, ganowa; wannan shine dalilin da yasa duniyoyi na ainihi suka haɓaka akan jiragen ruwan su, kamar yadda ake iya gani sarai daga jita-jita da suka shirya. A zahiri, muna iya tunanin masu fashin teku a matsayin masu munanan halaye, masu banƙyama da munanan halaye, amma a zahiri sun iya manyan abubuwa a cikin ɗakin girki, na hadaddun kayan abinci. Musamman, littafin da muka ambata a farko yana nuna yadda haihuwar Kayan abincin Caribbean, a farkon farawa, ya kasance daidai filibusta abinci.

Kamar yadda Michel Le Bris, mahaifin marubucin, ya rubuta a cikin gabatarwa, me yasa za a ayyana wannan abincin a matsayin "Caribbean", alhali kuwa a yadda yakamata a iya kiran sa da 'yanci? A zahiri ba ya samo asali ne kawai daga yawan jama'a na Indiya waɗanda ke lokacin yaƙin ba, amma ita ce samfurin taron tsakanin tasiri daban-daban, daga farkon-Caribbean da Afirka zuwa Faransanci, Ingilishi, Yaren mutanen Holland da Sifaniyanci, wanda kawai tukunyar narkewarsa, ya kammala Le Bris, shine ainihin filibusta. A takaice, ikon da teku ke da shi ya hade kuma ya hade! Bugu da ƙari, "ɗayan" ya kasance wani abu da aka mayar da shi zuwa lokacin mulkin mallaka: a yau ba shi da ma'ana, duniya sakamakon sakamakon cukurkuɗewa ne, asalinsu suna a hade kuma komai ya cakuɗe. Al'adu sun nuna mana yanzu suna haɗuwa kuma suna da kan iyakokin wucewa: ya rage namu mu yanke shawara idan muna son ƙetare su.

"A ƙarshe, saboda haka filibustiera shine asalin abincin Caribbean: giya mai zafi, mai laushi kamar narkakken lava, duk dandanon duniya an gauraye shi, an bayyana shi a cikin glimmer mai ƙyalli har zuwa yanzu ba a sani ba ”. Kuma a cikin irin wannan abincin mai ƙayatarwa, babban abin haɗin da yake koyaushe yana iya zama ɗaya: chilli, ko kuma sanyi. Saboda kun sani, girki yana nuna ruhi kuma mu ne muke ci, dama? To me 'yan fashin suka ci?

Me 'yan fashin suka ci? Chilli, ko kuma naman sanyi da biredi mara adadi

A cikin girkin filibusta akwai adadi mara iyaka na barkono barkono, to amfani da shiri iri-iri (kazalika da pancakes tare da peas da ake kira "chilli ni'ima"). Daga cikin mafi yawan nau'ikan sune:

• l 'atarugu, sarkin tsibirin Caribbean;
• il barkono cayenne, asali daga Andes;
• il Barkono na kasar Trinidad Congo, mai fasali kamar karamin kabewa;
• il kaji tsuntsu, don haka ake kira saboda kullun tsuntsaye suke masa pecking;
• il chili ayaba, kusan ya fi girma fiye da barkono;
• sananne jalapeno, babban abincin gargajiya na Meziko.

Bayan haka kuma har yanzu da yawa wasu, kamar su billy akuya, lo barkono mai ɗanɗano ko il Madam Jacques. Ka tuna cewa mafi ƙanƙan barkono suma sun fi ƙarfi!

Tare da waɗannan 'yan fashin suka shirya kayan ƙanshi iri-iri, kamar, misali, mafi shahara buccaneers barkono miya tare da kitse, gishiri, barkono da lemun kore wanda "sanannen mahaifin Labat yake so a matsayin abin da ya dace da naman alade da aka soya" Tare da kadoji, a gefe guda, ya fi dacewa Taumalin miya daga Caribbean, da aka yi daga barkono barkono na tsuntsu tare da albasa, shallot, chives, tafarnuwa, mai, faski. Sannan akwai sauran biredi mai hade da abubuwa daban daban, kamar wanda yake da shi gwanda (unripe) ko tumatir, don rage zafin ciwo; ko miya chien tare da kayan yaji. Daya daga cikin sabo shineajilimojili, tare da lemun tsami da tafarnuwa, mai zaki da yaji a lokaci guda, sabanin Scotch Bonnet Pepper Sauce wanda aka bayyana a cikin littafin a matsayin haɗarin fashewa har yanzu yana jiran waɗanda ke fama da cutar! Ba kalla ba barkono giyan rum, koyaushe tare da chillies na tsuntsaye hade da scotch ko rum, wanda digo guda kawai ya isa ... A takaice dai, zamu iya ci gaba da magana kan wannan batun mai yaji, amma mun fi son tsayawa anan, domin barin maku wasu abubuwan sani. kuma a ci gaba da abin da aka yi wa waɗannan sauɗan ɗin da shi, wato nama da kifi.

Nama: daga miyar biri zuwa kadangaru

“A nan duk wanda ya ce nama ya ce da farko gasashen nama". Kamar yadda mahaifin Labat, da farko an tafasa shi da lemun tsami, barkono da barkono sannan sai a cika shinkafa, tafarnuwa, kayan kamshi da albasa; ko na maroons, a nannade cikin ganyen ayaba da barkonon Jamaica. Amma kuma stewed, kazalika da naman yaro ko na naman sa, tare da brandy ko kayan yaji. Amma barin mu a bude baki akwai wasu nau'ikan naman, wanda zai sanya ba masu cin ganyayyaki kawai su mayar da hancinsu ba: "Masu sakewa da yunwa a shirye suke su ci kusan komai, kuma saboda galibi suna samun kansu ba tare da ko burodi ba saboda haka sun nade kan takalma, tafin kafa, safar hannu, hatsi ... "

Don haka, alal misali, ya faru sau da yawa don cin abinci penguins, ko da yin sha ne, Da di kifi da kadoji, suna da daraja sosai tare da ƙwai da ƙawatattun ƙadangare, an bayyana su a matsayin farin nama kwatankwacin na kaza. Ko kuma, na birai dafa shi a cikin miya, wanda bayan farkon lokacin ƙyama suna da ɗanɗano (a cewarsu), tare da ɗanɗano kamar na zomo. A mafi kyau, duk da haka, sun ci abincinagouti. ko manatee gasashen, "har ma ya fi naman maraƙi". Ba ƙaramar stew ba kore kunkuru wanda Uba Labat ya ce "cewa bai taba cin wani abu mai dadi da dadi ba, mai matukar gina jiki da sauƙin narkewa". Shin kuna tsammanin ya ci sosai da yawa a yau (sa'a, ina ƙarawa) jinsin kare ne.

Kuma koyaushe ya faru da shi shi ma ya ci nasa aku: “Naman ya kasance mai kyau, m da kuma dadi. Lokacin da wadannan tsuntsayen suka kasance samari suna da tofa-gashe, gasa, ko kuma a compote kamar lovebirds, tunda yawanci suna da kiba sosai ”. Amma ban da wadannan nau'ikan da ba safai ake samunsu ba, 'yan fashin teku sun ci duk wani tsuntsu da "ya wuce ta kusa da bindiga" daga tattabarai na itace zuwa na gargajiya pollo, wanda yawanci ana shirya shi akan gasa, tare da lemun tsami, ko a ciki Jambalaya, mai kama da paella, wanda ke tabbatar da tasirin Mutanen Espanya ko'ina.

Ko a cikin Salmigondis, Pirate tasa par kyau, ɗayan biyun da na ɗanɗana Rob Da Matt na Milan, lokacin da shugaba Edward Todeschini dafa shi a yayin gabatar da sabon littafin wannan littafin. Yana da game babban gauraye salatin da kayan lambu iri daban-daban hada da alayyafo, kabejin da aka dafa, latas, ruwan kwalliya, sannan ƙwai, inabi, gherkins, anchovies, kayan ƙamshi, mustard, vinegar, gishiri, mai, barkono, albasa, lemon, faski da kuma naman kaza da cinya, kuma ana iya maye gurbinsu tare da tattabara, naman shanu da / ko naman alade. A takaice, kaya ne don "marasa ladabi, tare da ɗanɗano wanda ba ya son gyara".

A ƙasan tekun: daga lambar da aka nema-ta Newfoundland zuwa… Flying fish!

Wannan na kifi babi ne mai ban sha'awa, ba kawai a cikin littafin ba, amma a cikin abinci na filibusta gaba ɗaya. Koina shine Lamarin Newfoundland: an tanada mafi kyau ga kasuwannin Faransa, yayin da sauran aka kai su tekun Caribbean ta jirgin ruwan fashin teku, "inda barorin Afirka suka yi daɗi fanke". A Martinique da Guadeloupe har yanzu an shirya shi kamar a zamanin filibusta, wannan yana ciki chiquetail, wanda ke nufin "a gutsure". Kamar yadda al'ada ta nuna, ya zo kyafaffen farko akan garwashin wuta har sai ya zama baƙi kaɗan; sa’an nan kuma aka tsarkake shi cikin ruwan sanyi, Zai fi dacewa ranar da ta gabata, kula da sauya ruwan ɗimuwa sau da yawa. Can chiquetail Har ila yau, kodin yana aiki a matsayin tushe don shirye-shiryen m, ɗayan abincin guda biyu da na gwada a Rob De Matt: a nan "ɗanɗano mai daɗi da na sukari na avocado yana tafiya da ban mamaki tare da ɗanɗano mai ɗanɗano da gishiri na kodin, duk a haɗe yake cikin sanyi da mayafin rogo".

Amma ban da kodin, "da zarar an jefa taru a cikin ruwa, sai aka cika su da halittu masu launuka masu haske da sifofi iri-iri", gami da kumbuna, zakara, rukuni, lobster, kawa mangrove, hadari, shrimps, urchins, sunfish, sole, garfish, polynemids, bream, tuna, trevally, cascadura, sea bream, swordfish, freshwater shrimp called ouassous, aku aku ko conches, koyaushe ba zuwa kasuwannin Antilles. Sauran fannoni na musamman sune maciji shirya akan gasa tare da miyar taushe, i yawo kifi, wato shudi kifi da za a dandana soyayyen, i kadoji da za a yi sai a cushe. Ko har yanzu shi shark, yawanci ana soyayyen shi da yaji tare da miya iri-iri don yaji ƙamshi mai ƙarfi, da hood kifi.

Ganawa tare da mutanen al'adun gargajiya: 'ya'yan itace, kayan lambu da saiwoyi 

“Filibus din da ba a san shi ba, har ma fiye da dabarun kamun kifin na Indiyawa, abin ya burge shi ta hanyar kwarewar mazauna yankin a matsayinsu na masu sana'ar noma: Tushen da fruitsa fruitsan itace sun yi yawa a ko'ina cikin ƙasar, galibi waɗanda aka kawo su daga Peru ko Brazil. 'Ya'yan itacen da aka shigo da su daga nahiyar, a zahiri, kamar suavocado ko sandar sukari, sun daidaita sosai yadda ba da daɗewa ba suka bazu a cikin daji ”. Ainihi tsakanin waɗannan shine manioc, asalinsu daga kudu maso yammacin Brazil, ainihin abin bauta, tushen abincin su. An dafa shi da farko don kawar da yawan guba da ke ciki sannan kuma matsi domin cire ruwan, kuma yana da amfani wajen kiyaye nama. Sauran kayan lambu waɗanda suka bunƙasa da kyau wasu ne Tushen kamar su kabeji na Caribbean da okra, wannan shine okra. Ko, tubers kamar su dankalin hausa, ana amfani dashi a cikin wainar a matsayin kayan zaki, koyam : A zahiri, duk da haka, ga mazaunan Antilles ba abu ne mai mahimmanci ba a ayyana da rarrabe daban-daban tubers saboda suna son haɗa su duka a cikin guda ɗaya wanda ake kira, a zahiri, "Cakuda komai" tare da kayan lambu irin na Turawa da na gida, kamar su karas, jujjuya, kabewa, inji, kabeji na Caribbean, koren wake, sannan man alade, gwaiduwa na kwai, kayan yaji, tafarnuwa, madarar kwakwa, kuma hakika chilli; duk suna nan a cikin adadi masu yawa dangane da samuwar su.

Daga cikin furotin, duk da haka, wake da wake a nufin da yawa iri. Tare da na biyun, an shirya ɗayan alamomin abinci na ɗan fashin teku, wato wake wake tare da kilo iri iri, hade da tafarnuwa, albasa, ginger da kayan kamshi iri iri kamar su safron, curry da barkono. A ƙarshe, tsakanin 'ya'yan itacen, nabishiyar gurasa, wanda mun riga mun gaya muku game da Rolls a cikin ganyayyaki, da kuma babba ayaba ayaba, ana amfani dashi a cikin shirye-shiryen kayan zaki daban-daban, duka an dahu a gasa a kwasfa da a cikin biredin azaman kayan zaki na Antillean.

"Wawa don kayan zaki": mahimmancin rake da 'ya'yan itace

Babu shakka a tsakiyar zuciyar mai zaƙi sukari sannan kuma sandar sukari, wacce take a girkin filibusta wani sinadari, ba mai ɗanɗano mai sauƙi ba (shi ne tushe, a tsakanin sauran abubuwa, daga abin da ake samun rum). Wannan ba wurin da za a sake tuno da labarin bakin ciki game da yadda ake noma shi da kuma yanayi mai ban mamaki da ƙarnuka suka sha bautar baƙar fata, amma na tabbata cewa kusan kowa ya tuna da babban almara wanda ya ci wannan aikin. A cikin littafin zato cewa sukari shine asalin fashin teku, tunda "manoma, wadanda mahaifar su ta yi watsi da su a gonakin, suna bukatar filibusta duka don ci gaba da kasuwancin su kuma a kiyaye shi, har sai sukari ya zama asalin arzikin tsibiran da kuma hanyar haduwa ga Jihohin da abin ya shafa".

Baya ga bukatun tattalin arziki da siyasa, wannan sinadarin yana da matukar sha'awar dakin girki: "'yan fashin duk sun kasance yara ne kanana, mahaukaci don kayan zaki, kayan zaki, compotes, jams (galibi na apricots na gida), yana nuna cewa akwai wasu rayukan rashi a cikinsu fiye da yadda muke faɗi " Daga cikin kayan zaki akwai, misali, da fari-ci, kayan zaki na madarar kwakwa (jiran na almond), wanda ba ruwan 'ya'yan itace ne da ke cikin gyada ba, amma ana samun hakan ne ta hanyar murza garin alkamar a cikin ruwan dafa ruwa. Sannan wasu waina kamar su wainar suga tare da inabi, nutmeg, butter, sugar, cream da kirfa, ko wainar baƙi na Trinidad, karbuwa na gargajiya pudding na Turanci. Ko ma ni tolum, kayan kwalliyar molasses masu kama da na Cuban frangollos da kwallon tamarind, kwallaye tare da tamarind ɓangaren litattafan almara sun wuce cikin sukari.

Idan mulkin sanda aikin mutane ne, da 'ya'yan itace sadaukarwa ce ta Allah, ƙari ƙari a cikin waɗannan tsibirai inda aka sami wadatattun abubuwa iri-iri. Don wannan kusan koyaushe ana kasancewa ɗaya ne 'ya'yan itace salad, wanda yake akwai, kamar su abarba, mangoro, ayaba, avocado (a cikin West Indies ana yawan cin shi azaman kayan zaki da sukari, furannin lemu da ruwan tashi), kankana, lemu, kankana, tare da ɗan lemo da rum. Kuma lokacin da suka gano sabbin fruitsa fruitsan itace da basu sani ba, shin kun san yadda suka gudanar don tabbatar da cewa suna da kyau? Sun jira kuma sun lura cewa tsuntsayen sun cinye su, saboda "idan suka ci su alama ce ta cewa mu ma zamu iya cin su".

A cikin kowane hali, duk abin da kayan zaki ya kasance, a bayyane yake babu rashin barasa da narkewar abinci a matsayin abin haɗawa.

Yo oh, bari mu sha shi! Abin da 'yan fashin suka sha

“Filibuster shine wanda yake sha. Mugs, carafes, ganga da aka buga ba tare da ɓata lokaci ba: babu wani abu da zai iya kashe wutar da ta cinye ta, wutar yaƙe-yaƙe, na tsawa mai tsawa, garuruwa masu ƙonewa, wutar sanyi da ba ta taɓa zafi sosai ba, wutar rayuwa ƙone nan take ". Jiran jirage na farko, ruwan inabi shi ne sarkin duk idodin. Ba wai kawai na inabin da aka shigo da shi daga Faransa da Spain ba, har ma waɗanda aka samo daga yaƙin wasu 'ya'yan itacen da ake samu, kamar waɗannan masu zuwa:

• il Abarba abarba, wanda ya kamata a sha nan da nan kafin ya zama mai ɗaci;
• ruwan inabi na ayaba ayaba, “A cinye shi cikin matsakaici saboda yana saurin bada kai”;
• ruwan inabi na zobo, fure mai hibiscus ja;
• l 'maikura, ruwan inabin rogo, wanda ya shahara sosai, ya sha kusan kowace rana, “amma wanda bayan kwana biyu ko uku na narkarwar ya zama kamar giya”;
• il maby, ruwan inabi mai zaki ko ja.

Daga baya, farawa daga ƙarshen ƙarni na 600, tare da ƙirƙirar ɓarnar farko a Barbados a cikin 1663, Ya fara samarwa (kuma musamman ci gaba da amfani) na giyan rum. Kalmar, a zahiri, ta bayyana a karo na farko a cikin takaddar majalissar Jamaica a 1651: “nasarorin sun yi matukar birgeni cewa a shekarar 1655 Royal Navy ya kara romo ga abincin masu ruwa a kullum. Kuma da Ti'Punch tare da lemun tsami da sukari ba da daɗewa ba ya zama hanyar da aka fi shan ta ”, tare Nayar madara tare da vanilla da nutmeg ko al Mai buga Punch tare da tsarkakakken giya da kuma ruwan 'ya'yan itace da aka gauraya. Bugu da ƙari, shan lemu ko lemun tsami ya ƙaru sosai lokacin da aka yi tunanin cewa zai iya taimakawa hana scurvy, cuta mai yaduwa sosai, wacce ta lalata ma’aikatan tsakanin 1600 da 1800. Anyi la’akari da dalilin sa, ban da rashin tsafta, rashin ascorbic acid, ana gabatar dashi a maimakon ‘ya’yan itacen citrus.

Wani shahararren abin sha shine hadaddiyar giyar Morgan, tare da madara kwakwa, roman amber, farin rum, abarba da koren lemon tsami. A ƙarshe, ba abinci ya ƙare ba tare da mugunta wuta kofi, tare da bawon lemu da lemun tsami, ginger, cloves, kirfa, cognac da cointreau. Amma ka tuna cewa "gaskiyar cewa sun ƙona maƙogwaron su da giya ba ta hana su neman zaƙi ba, farawa da cioccolato, wanda a shirye suke su yi kowane irin wauta ".

Wannan ya isa, mun riga mun gaya muku isashen abin da 'yan fashin teku suka ci. Muna fatan mun baka sha'awa, yanzu kawai zaka sayi (ka cinye kanka) wannan littafin!

L'articolo Miyar biri, 'ya'yan itace da kayan zaki - abin da' yan fashin ke ci kenan da alama shine farkon a kan Littafin Abinci.